Food Philosophy

Cosmopolitanism…

I was born in Soviet Ukraine, spent my formative years in Cyprus, studied in Italy and have for the past twelve years been calling Britain my home. My family history covers half a Eurasian continent from Siberia to Azerbaijan.

My culinary repertoir is vast and keeps expanding – as the more you dig, the stronger one’s gastronomic wanderlust becomes. I cherish the Uzbeki, Moldovan and Russian recipes I inherited from my grandmothers, Armenian dishes I borrowed from my aunt.

Seasonality…

Even though ingredients such as lemongrass and lime leaves are almost never absent from my fridge, seasonality plays a great role in my cooking, especially when it comes to designing catering and pop up menus. Ingredients are at their best when they are in season and when they are local. But exoticism marries so well with seasonal British produce – salsify coated in a spicy yoghurty tandoori marinade – grilled briefly and then roasted is – heaven.

Vegetarian…

I am not. But I cannot live without vegetables. I get truly excited writing and cooking vegetarian food. I caught the bug working at Ottolenghi’s Islington restaurant. Vegetarian dishes do not have to be boring. In fact creating exciting vegetarian dishes is a challenge I will never ever shun. Which takes me to…

Creativity…

People are too scared of being adventurous. I often get asked by friends (who are brilliant cooks) – ‘would this herb go in this dish…?’. Yes. Yes it will, unless it is a huge bunch of sage, which can be a little strong, all herbs go. Myfavourite combination at the moment is the Caucasus-inspired mix of chopped coriander, purple basil, dill and tarragon! Whatever the ingredient, always remember salty and sweet is great, sweet and sour – even better, throw in a tiny bit of spice into the mix – and your taste buds explode.

Baby-Led…

And please do not stop being creative or at least adventurous when cooking for your children. Not to be preachy, as different methods work for different people and situations, but I have never fed my son Sasha one purée. From six months he has just been eating the same food that we have been eating (just with less salt and spiciness). I may just be lucky, but he is now five and he eats chicken gizzards, barbecued squid tentacles and raw onions. Do not make a big deal out of making your children separate meals – they don’t in France or Thailand – why should we in Britain? Let them explore texture and different flavours. Itchy gums? Give them a lemongrass stalk to gnaw on. It’s a winner.

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4 Comments on “Food Philosophy

  1. love your bit about baby-led… although what you’re doing isn’t really baby-led weaning, it’s just sensible. We have always given our two yr old the same food as us, we just cut or mashed it up smaller. Children should know about the various flavours and textures there are to widen their palate as much as possible.

  2. You say that you are a great believer in fusion. I understand creativity and it’s importance but surely fusion cuisines are an abomination. The word gives me goosebumps I just can’t help it. I do not claim to stand above the food-as-fuel fray nor do I possess a vapid elitist fixation with what we put in our mouths. I feel that the word fusion denies the slow evolutionary journey that has happened historically over the centuries….

    • Hello, thank you for your comment. I must update my website, I haven’t in about three years.

      I agree that ‘fusion’ is a rather annoying word. What can be more annoying is when chefs fuse cuisines just for the sake of a concept. However, I believe it’s ok to introduce something new to a cuisine if it feels natural, unforced, if it happens organically.
      I’ve been living in the UK for 15 years, and some methods like roasting – I now much prefer than boiling which we do a lot more of in Ukraine. Then ingredients like rhubarb, long forgotten in my part of Ukraine but popular in the UK, I have no problem using in recipes that I grew up with.

      Manty – Central Asian dumpling stuffedwith lamb – no lamb in Ukraine so my Siberian gran started using pork which was used widely and was of very good quality.

      Fusion as a word may have irritating connotations, but ‘fusing’ of various cuisines – methods and ingredients – is a naturally occuring thing and is part of the culinary evolution.

      Enjoyed your comment, thank you.

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